| Corundum ( Sapphire ) Structure : Trigonal Hardness : 9 Specific Gravity : 4 Refractive index : 1.76 - 1.7 Doubly Refracting (bi-refraction) : 0.008
The existence
of sapphires in considerable quantities in some part of the North-West Himalayas
was first brought to light in 1881, or early in 1882, when some were brought
into Simla by traders from Lahol, who stated that they had been obtained from a
spot among the mountains on the borders of Zanskar, where a landslip had laid
bare the rocks beneath the soil, and disclosed the presence of the gems. Various
stories are told of the original discovery; according to one of these, which was
told me on the spot, a certain shikari, having lost the flint from his gun while
out hunting, or, as is the custom of the natives when in want of a light for
their pipes, looking for a handy fragment of quartz or other hard rock to strike
a light with, picked up a small sapphire, and finding that it answered his
purpose better than the ordinary fragments of quartz he was in the habit of
using, carried it about with him for some time, and eventually sold it to a
Laholi trader, by whom it was taken to Simla, where its value was recognised.
Enquiries were then made, which resulted in the discovery of the spot where the
shikari had picked up the stone, and for some time, until guards were posted
near the locality by the Maharajah of Kashmir, in whose territory it lies, large
quantities of the stones were brought to Simla and sold at absurdly low prices,
the Laholis only asking about one rupee per seer for them. Another story runs to
the effect that a number of traders who had arrived in the Simla bazaar with
borax from Rupshu were emptying their baskets in a merchant’s shop, when a stone
fell out and was thrown by the merchant into the street. The well-known jeweller,
Mr. Jacobs, happened to be passing at the time, and, so the story goes, was
struck by the stone. Picking it up, perhaps with the intention of returning it,
he saw what it was, and on the merchant’s claiming it, when he saw that there
was something unusual about it, bought it for a small sum. This latter story, if
it is to be relied on, would seem to point to the existence of another and as
yet unknown locality for the gems, somewhere in Rupshu; otherwise it would be
difficult to account for the presence of the sapphire among the borax, which is
brought to Simla along a route that does not pass anywhere near the known
locality in Pádar. Various stories have been circulated of the discovery of
sapphires in Kulu and other portions of the North-West Himalayas, but up to the
present time none of these have been confirmed.
 |
| A selection of both rough and cut Kashmir sapphires.
The cut stones range from 6–14 ct. (Photo:
Henry Hänni/SSEF) |
|
Early in 1882 a few specimens of the gems
were sent down from Simla to the Indian Museum, and examined by Mr. F.R. Mallet,
who published a full account of their mineralogical and chemical characters in
the Records for that year—Vol. XV, page 138. Mr. Mallet also published an
account of them, with figures of the crystals, in Part IV of the Manual of the
Geology of India, p. 40. In the former paper he says:— “The physical and
chemical characters of the specimens slow conclusively that they are true
sapphires. The specific gravity of the larger piece was found to be 3.959 and of
the smaller 3.961. The mineral scratches topaz; is infusible before the
blowpipe; and when fused in powder with acid potassium sulphate, and dissolved
in water, yields a bulky precipitate of alumina with ammonia.”
At
the time when these specimens were sent down, considerable doubts existed as to
the locality in which they were found. This was partly due to the similarity in
the name of the district of Pádar in the Chinab Valley, in which they were
actually found, with that of the village of Padam1
in Zanskar, from which district it was at first stated that they had been
obtained. This mistake was pointed out by Mr. Lydekker in his memoir on the
geology of Kashmir (Memoirs, Geological Survey, Vol. XXII, p. 336). The locality
is correctly given in a letter from the Rev. A. W. Heyde, Moravian missionary at
Kyelung, printed with Mr. Mallett’s paper in the Records above cited, as 2 or 3
kos to the east of Machél in Pádar; but the statement of one of his informants,
that the place could be most easily reached by way of the Pentse Lá, one of the
passes leading from Kashmir to Zanskar, is incorrect, as a lofty range of
mountains extends between the actual locality and that pass.
 |
| Plate I. The Kashmir sapphire mines. From a
photograph by T.D. LaTouche. |
|
In the year 1887 the Kashmir Durbar,
finding that the revenue from the mines, which had been worked by them with
considerable profit since the first discovery, was steadily diminishing, applied
to the Government of India for a geologist to examine the mines, and I was
deputed to visit and report upon their present condition. I arrived at Srinagar
about the middle of August, and obtained as much information as possible about
the position of the mines, which I was told were situated near the village of
Soomjam on the Bhutna, a tributary of the Chinab entering it from the north-east
at Gulabgarh in the district of Padar. Crossing the Marbal pass, 11,550 feet, at
the head of the Kashmir Valley, I reached Kishtwar, near the junction of the
Wardwan and Chináb Rivers, both of which had to be crossed by jhulas, or rope
bridges, in 6 days. Thence a somewhat difficult path led up the left bank of the
Chináb to Gulabgarh. The river runs through an exceedingly deep and narrow
gorge, and the path generally keeps at a considerable height above it, but the
numerous side streams, which also run in deep gorges, necessitate a descent and
ascent of two or three thousand feet in several places, so that the marches are
very trying: the path is, however, practicable for unladen ponies. This portion
of the journey took 5 days to accomplish, though the distance from Kishtwar in a
direct line is only 24 miles. At Gulabgarh the valley opens out considerably and
is well cultivated: here the Chináb is again crossed by a long and somewhat
shaky jhula close to an old fort which stands at the junction of the
Bhutna with the larger river. From this point, which is about 6,000 feet above
sea-level, the rise up the valley of the Bhutna is considerable, about 250 feet
per mile, but the valley is more open, and the path keeps near the bank of the
river, so that travelling is much easier. Soomjam, the highest village on the
southern side of the lofty range dividing Zanskar from the Chináb Valley, is
reached in 2 marches, or 13 in all from Srinagar; this village lies at an
altitude of about 11,000 feet in Latitude 33° 25' 30" N. and Longitude 76° 28'
10" E., at the lower end of a broad level plain, about 5 miles long and 1/2 mile
broad. This was formerly occupied by an extension of the glaciers which now
descend only as far as its upper end from the passes leading into Zanskar, a
large moraine stretching from side to side of the valley immediately above
Soomjam, and the polished surfaces of the cliffs on either side, indicating
their former extent A general extension of the glaciers in former times over the
whole of this region is shown by the occurrence, near the head of each of the
streams draining this range of mountains, of a similar more or less level and
open plain, near the lower ends of which are generally found the remains of an
ancient moraine. But the difference in altitude between these old moraines and
those now forming is not so great as one would expect, considering that in other
parts of the Himalayas they are found as much as 5,000 feet below the present
limits of the glaciers. This may perhaps be accounted for by supposing that
during glacial times this portion of the hills stood at a lower elevation than
at present, and has undergone a considerable upheaval since that period.
 |
This 4-ct. plus Kashmir sapphire exhibits the
velvety blue color that has made stones from this source without peer in
the world.
(Photo: John McLean; Gem: Pala International) |
|
A
steep climb of about 2,500 feet to the W. N. W. from Soomjam brings one to the
lower end of a small triangular valley, formed by a bifurcation of one of the
spurs that run down from the lofty peaks to the north, and in this the sapphire
mines, or rather diggings, are situated, This valley is shut in on the north and
west by steep cliffs rising to some 3,000 feet above it and is open to the south
and east, whence there is a magnificent view of the glaciers and snowy peaks
surrounding the head of the Bhutna and its tributaries. The trigonometrical
survey station of Ganar, 14,210 feet, lies about a mile to the west of the
mines, and I found by careful comparison of simultaneous observations made with
mercurial barometers that the altitude of my camp, just below the workings, was
13,160 feet. Up to this level the hill-sides are covered with grass and various
flowers, a wild onion being very common; but it is just above the limit of the
birch, which reaches an altitude of about 13,160 feet on the slopes below. Above
this the ground is nearly bare of vegetation, a few grasses, stonecrops, and
scanty flowers, among which a kind of musk with a dark bluebell-shaped flower
was rather common, being the only plants. When I visited the place in 1888 in
the middle of July, snow was lying on the ground close above the camp to a depth
of 8 feet, and did not disappear till the end of August, a few small patches
lingering on throughout the year. The climate, however, was not severe during
the time I was there; between the 17th July and the 23rd September the
thermometer did not once fall below freezing point, and snow fell on only three
occasions, the 23rd August and 24th and 30th September. The lowest temperature
registered was 28° F. on the 27th September and the highest 69.2° F. on the 15th
August. At the beginning of October snow began to fall regularly and work had to
be given up for the season.
In the year 1887 the Kashmir Durbar, finding
that the revenue from the mines, which had been worked by them with considerable
profit since the first discovery, was steadily diminishing, applied to the
Government of India for a geologist to examine the mines…
The
small upland valley in which the sapphires are found is about 1,000 yards long
by 400 yards broad at its lower end; the floor rises at an average angle of
about 20° to the north-west, narrowing to a point, and is thickly covered with
loose debris fallen from the surrounding cliffs. It is from a narrow strip of
this debris, averaging about 100 feet in width, along the northern side of the
valley, that the sapphires are at present obtained. They appear to have been
originally derived from a spot high up on the cliffs to the north of the valley,
near the head of a small ravine which enters it at some distance from the apex
(see plan, Pl. III); this accounts for their distribution along only one side of
the valley.
The
rock of which the cliffs are composed is mainly a coarse schistose gneiss,
containing a white felspar and much black mica; portions of it are also crowded
with deep red and brown garnets. On the northern side a thick bed of coarsely
crystalline siliceous limestone (seen to the right of Pl. I near the top of the
cliff) is intercalated with the gneiss. This I traced to the south-east as far
as Soomjam and to the north-west for about two miles. The thickness of the bed
is not constant, as it increases from about 6 feet near Soomjam to 100 feet or
more near the mines, but its upper and lower surfaces appear to be strictly
conformable with the foliation planes of the gneiss. Also interbedded with the
gneiss are several large masses of a peculiar hornblende-like rock (kupfferite):
this is in part a felted mass of fibrous lamellae, and in part made up of
radiating fibrous aggregates several inches in diameter: the colour is generally
grey or olive green, with patches of a brighter green. The masses are frequently
from 20 to 30 feet thick (one large detached mass, under which the coolies
employed at the mines have burrowed holes in which they live, standing out from
the hill-side close to my camp, must have been 100 feet thick at least), but die
away rapidly in a horizontal direction. Between them and the gneiss is generally
found a band, from 1 to 2 feet thick, of a soft rock composed of short acicular
fibres, bright green or white in colour, apparently of the same mineral, or in
places a band of rock entirely composed of crystals of mica. I have only found
this rock in the vicinity of the sapphire mines, but whether its presence is in
any way connected with the development of the sapphires I cannot say. I found
one specimen in which a crystal of sapphire was imbedded in the kupfferite, but
this was the only case I saw of their occurrence in contact. All these rocks
have a pretty constant easterly dip of about 40°. Lastly, the gneiss is
traversed by numerous dykes of granite occasionally parallel with its foliation,
but usually cutting directly across it. This granite is generally very
coarse-grained (pegmatite), composed of large crystals of milk-white felspar
with much quartz, either clear or milk-white and occasionally pink, and sparsely
scattered plates of dark-coloured mica up to an inch or so in diameter. As
accessories the granite contains well-developed crystals of black tourmaline,
called coal by the coolies, sometimes of large size (up to 4 or 5 inches in
length), light-green enclase, kyanite, minute red garnets, and finally crystals
of corundum or sapphire. These last are associated with a white felspar,
apparently a plagioclastic variety, occurring in small grains, which give a
porous character to the portions of the rock in which they occur. The sapphire
crystals appear to be very local in their development, the only spot where they
have hitherto been found in situ being near the top of the ridge bounding the
northern side of the small valley above mentioned, and about 1,600 feet above
it. Here the face of the rock has been laid bare by a landslip, and at first the
sapphires were taken out of the granite itself; but when I visited the mines
this patch of rock had ceased to yield any for some time, nor did the closest
search bring any more to light. On the northern side of the ridge, however, I
discovered some large blocks of the granite crowded with crystals of corundum,
most of which had a bluish tint; but all my efforts to find the source of these
blocks were of no avail, owing to the enormous depth to which the rocks
composing this side of the ridge had been weathered,—so much so that it would
require a landslip to lay the rock sufficiently bare to enable it to be properly
searched. I attempted to bring one about by digging deep trenches across the
hill-side in which water might collect, but without success.
The sapphire crystals appear to be very local
in their development, the only spot where they have hitherto been found in situ
being near the top of the ridge bounding the northern side of the small valley
above mentioned, and about 1,600 feet above it. Here the face of the rock has
been laid bare by a landslip, and at first the sapphires were taken out of the
granite itself; but when I visited the mines this patch of rock had ceased to
yield any for some time, nor did the closest search bring any more to light.
Although
many dykes of granite are seen in other parts of the cliffs surrounding the head
of the valley, none of them appear to contain sapphires, and none are found in
the debris covering the floor of the valley, except in a narrow strip along its
northern edge. In this, crystals and fragments of sapphire and corundum are
fairly numerous, especially near the head of the valley; and at the time of my
first visit about 100 coolies were employed in searching for them by digging up
the surface with small kodalis and picking up any sapphires they came across.
This was not a very satisfactory method of working the deposit, for the darker
coloured and therefore better gems were liable to escape notice, and the upper 6
inches or so were worked over and over again, with very poor results: so I had a
simple washing apparatus made of a few planks and set up at a large spring which
issued from the hill-side near the camp, and the stuff containing the sapphires
carried down to it in baskets This washing apparatus consisted of a platform
about 6 feet square, over which a strong stream of water was kept flowing, which
carried away the mud and finer particles, the coarse pebbles and sand being held
back by a low edging of upright planks; then when cleaned sufficiently the sand
and gravel were thrown into a broad and gently sloping trough, through which a
moderate stream of water was kept running, when the sapphires could easily be
detected and picked out (Pl. II). Most of the stones obtained in this way were
small fragments, some not much larger than a pin’s head, and crystals, the great
majority showing very little colour and being of small value as gems.
Occasionally, however, a larger stone of good colour would be found; thus the
largest obtained in 1887 weighed about 6 oz., and was partly of a very brilliant
colour; but in 1888 the largest weighed only 104 grains, and very few were found
weighing more than 50 grains. These are not to be compared with those brought
down when the mine was first discovered. I was shown some in the treasury at
Jammu that measured 5 inches in length by 3 inches in breadth, and though none
of these were uniformly coloured, but shaded off into white at either end of the
crystal, still some very fine gems might be cut from them.
In
order to find out whether or not the deposit was equally productive in every
part, I had small pits dug at various points, and the stuff taken out of each of
them weighed and then washed separately, afterwards weighing the sapphires
obtained. It was found that the yield of sapphires steadily decreased towards
the lower end of the deposit; but it so happened that the largest stone obtained
was found in the lowest pit of all, which, however, produced only one other
fragment of sapphire, weighing 1/7 tola. It would probably therefore be worth
while to work over the whole of the deposit, which can easily be done by the use
of such a washing apparatus as I devised, though, owing to the shortness of the
season during which work can be carried on, it will take several years yet to do
so. I found also that the productiveness of the deposit decreased rapidly from
the surface downwards, so that at a depth of more than 3 feet no sapphires
whatever were found.
 |
| Plate II. Washing for Kashmir sapphires. From a
photo by T.D. LaTouche. |
|
During
the working season of 1888, i.e., from the 17th July to the 29th September, the
total quantity of corundum obtained was 1,630 tolas, of which perhaps one fourth
would be commercially valuable; but the average weight of the stones, calculated
from the results of 25 days’ working, during which I counted and weighed each
day’s production, was not more than 10 grains; and I hardly think that,
considering the inaccessible character of the locality, the difficulty of
obtaining labour and of preventing smuggling, the yield of sapphires will in the
future be very profitable, unless the actual bed in which they occur in situ can
be again discovered.
Besides
the corundum several other minerals, interesting from a scientific point of
view, though not commercially valuable, are found in the granite of this region.
For a determination of the species of most of these I am indebted to Mr. F.R.
Mallet, late of the Geological Survey, who kindly examined them for me. These
are the following:—
- Light-green crystals of tourmaline are found in a
granite vein about 1 mile from the ridge in which the sapphires occur; they
are fairly numerous in some parts of the rock, thickly encrusting the
surface of large crystals of quartz, or penetrating for some distance into
their interior. The crystals are transparent, very thin in proportion to
their length, seldom reaching a length of more than two inches, with a
breadth of about 1/8 inch, and are very brittle. Their mode of occurrence is
exactly similar to that of the rubellite, a pink variety of tourmaline, of
Rozena in Moravia (Indian Museum), which is also found in long thin crystals
penetrating crystals of quartz.
- A rare mineral, Cookeite, which is stated by Dana
(Manual of Mineralogy, p. 314) to be an alteration product of rubellite, is
found enveloping the green tourmaline; a cross section showing a rod of the
latter enclosed in a thick walled tube of Cookeite; this is pink or white in
colour and occurs in fairly considerable quantities. Mr. Mallet says: "The
hardness is about 2.5; lustre pearly on cleavage faces; it exfoliates
strongly when heated before the blowpipe, and colours the flame crimson,
showing the presence of lithia."
- Spodumene. A few lilac-coloured crystalline blocks
of this mineral, which also contains lithia, were found in a valley to the
north of the sapphire mines, between them and the place where the green
tourmalines were found: none of these were found in situ.
- A large block of prebnite was also found in the
same valley. There can be no doubt, I think, that this and the last mineral
were derived from the granite.
- Traces of copper carbonate were found in some of
the granite veins to the west of the sapphire mines, but in very small
quantity.
- Some well-formed hexagonal prisms of beryl were
brought to me from near Machél, a village on the Bhutna below Soomjam. On my
return from the mines I visited the place, which was about 4 miles to the
west of Machél and at an altitude of about 12,000 feet, but I found that the
beryls did not occur in any large quantity, and those found were very poor
in colour, bluish green shading into white.
- A few pieces of a dark-blue mineral, lazulite, were
brought to me, which were said to have been obtained from an almost
inaccessible spot two or three days’ journey from Gulabgarh. I was not able
to reach the spot by reason of a heavy fall of snow which came on while I
was at Gulabgarh.
- Fairly clear crystals of quartz or
rock-crystals are obtained in many places over the whole of this region, but
they do not seem to occur in sufficient quantity in any one place to make it
worth while to mine for them systematically.
During the working season of 1888, i.e., from the 17th
July to the 29th September, the total quantity of corundum obtained was 1,630
tolas, of which perhaps one fourth would be commercially valuable…
While at the mines I made several excursions
into the valleys near, and sent out many intelligent natives to try and
discover new localities for sapphires, but, except in one instance, without
success. This was close to the Hagshu-lá, one of the passes leading from the
Bhutna Valley into Zanskar; and as I crossed this pass on a flying visit which
I made to Zanskar during my stay at the mines, I was enabled to investigate
the “find.” The pass is about 16,600 feet in altitude, and large glaciers
descend from it on either side to the north and south. Near the head of that
on the southern side, and close to the foot of the final ascent from the
glacier to the pass, a large block of granite, lying on the moraine beside the
glacier, was pointed out to me, which contained numerous blue hexagonal
crystals, and these on investigation turned out to be sapphires. At first I
thought that they were merely kyanite, as they appeared to possess the
different hardness on two faces of the crystal which is characteristic of that
mineral; but Mr. Mallet found that this was really due to a glaze of mica
covering the basal cleavage planes which he thinks is caused by a partial
alteration of the mineral, and pronounced them to be really sapphire. Some of
the crystals were about an inch in diameter, but none of them were of a good
colour throughout, the blue shading into a greenish blue in places. It was
impossible to discover the source of this block of granite, which was the only
one visible, during the short time I was able to stay at the spot, but there
can be no doubt that it came from some part of the cliffs surrounding the head
of the glacier. The spot where this block was lying is about 15,500 feet above
the sea, and it probably came from some point which is much higher, and
perhaps inaccessible.
I
could obtain no information confirming the statement made in Mr. Heyde’s
letter, quoted above, that “in the immediate neighbourhood of the spot
described (i.e., Soomjam) the people know of two others, in one of
which the blue stone is found, not below the ground, but in horizontal seams
of a large rock, but also, as it appears, surrounded or embedded in that white
stuff.” This may refer to the lazulite found near Gulabgarh, which is
associated with a white schistose mineral. Nor could I get any further
information about the locality which in the same letter is said to exist above
the monastery at Bardun in Zanskar, and I was not able, from want of time, to
pay a visit to Bardun. There seems to be no reason, however, why sapphires
should not occur in many other places in this region where the rocks are
pierced by granite veins, and other localities may in time be brought to light
either by chance, as in the case of the original discovery, or by a closer
search than I was able to make.
After
I had seen the operations at the sapphire mines fairly commenced and in
working order, I paid a visit to Zanskar, whence specimens of certain other
minerals besides the sapphire above described had been brought to me, and as
the district appears to be one seldom visited by Europeans, some account of my
journey may be interesting. Leaving Soomjam about the middle of August, I
crossed the main range by the Hagshu-lá 16,600 feet, a pass which is not often
used by the natives, though a good deal lower than the Umasi-lá further to the
east. Large glaciers descend from either side of the pass, that on the north
being the longer, about 16 miles, without counting its numerous tributaries.
The glaciers are easily traversed after one has surmounted the mass of moraine
matter which entirely covers their lower ends, sometimes for a distance of
half a mile or more; above this the surface is generally nearly level, and
very free from crevasses, those that do occur being usually narrow and easily
jumped across; until the head of the glacier is reached, where there is
generally a steep slope rising towards the nevée, and cut up by numerous large
transverse crevasses, which occasionally give trouble, but with care they can
be avoided, and ropes are never used by the natives while crossing them.
The
valley, called the Hagshu Tokpho, leading down from the pass to the north,
opens into the wider valley of the Zanskar River, a large tributary of the
Indus; here the valley is open and fairly level for a long distance,
containing many villages and monasteries, and in parts well cultivated, but
almost bare of trees. The only trees of any size that I saw were some small
poplars planted near the village of Seni; these I was told had been brought
from Ladakh. A shrubby willow is plentiful in the ravines on either side of
the main river and along its banks, but all timber for building purposes has
to be imported.
To
the north of the Zanskar River in this part of its course a considerable
change takes place in the aspect of the mountains, corresponding with a change
in their geological structure. Those on the south are rugged and precipitous,
mainly formed of gneiss, while on the north they are generally smothered in
talus to their summits, which gives them a more rounded appearance and renders
them easy to climb; the latter are formed of the slaty schists of the Panjal
series, a rock which disintegrates rapidly under the action of frost.
 |
| Plate III. Sketch plan of the Kashmir sapphire
mines, Pádar, Kashmir. Scale 600 ft. = 1 inch |
|
 I
crossed these mountains by a little-used path across the Rulakun-lá, about
17,500 feet—an easy pass and quite practicable for hill ponies; some miles,
however, to the north of the pass, near the village of Rulagong, another
change takes place in the nature of the country, corresponding again with a
change in the rocks These are massive limestones and slaty rocks of Supra
Kuling age, much contorted on a large scale, and through them the streams have
cut enormously deep ravines with almost perpendicular sides, recalling, though
perhaps on a small scale, the canons of America. The Zanskar River has also
cut a similar gorge through these rocks, where the gorge, 100 feet above the
river, is sufficiently narrow to allow of a wooden bridge being thrown across.
I was informed that the lumps of native copper, from which Zanskar is said to
derive its name, are found in the bed of the river near this bridge, but only
in the winter, when the upper waters of the river are frozen, and the bed here
is more or less dried up; in September, when I crossed it, the river was in
full flood, and it was useless to attempt to search for the copper.
 Three
days’ marching through the gorges north of Rulagong brought me to the village
of Linshot, at the foot of a lofty scarp, mainly formed of a black foetid
limestone, the upper beds of the Supra Kuling series. Near this village I
discovered several large masses of a similar black limestone crowded with
nummulites, and traced them up to a peak, called Z4 on the maps, immediately
above the Singhe-lá, 16,601 feet, a pass by which the scarp is crossed, where
I found the nummulites at an elevation of about 18,500 feet above sea-level.
These nummulites were first discovered by Dr. Thomson in 1852 when he crossed
Singhe-lá, but subsequently Mr. Lydekker had thrown some doubt on this being
the locality in which they were found, as they escaped his notice when he
crossed the pass. A description of the locality and the rocks in which the
nummulites occur will be found in the Records, Geological Survey, Vol. XXI,
Pt. IV, p. 160.
 The
depression which forms the pass itself, as well as another, the Sirsa-lá, of
about the same height, several miles to the north, is caused by the
intervention of a broad band of shaly rocks between the black limestones on
the west and the hard limestones and slates of the lower Supra Kuling series
on the east; these latter are sharply contorted on a large scale, the
differently-coloured bands of rock rendering the contortions very visible on
the precipitous face of the cliffs. Many sections thus exposed recall the
familiar examples of rock twisting shown in Heim’s plates of the structure of
various parts of the Alps.
 In
the valleys to the north and west of the Sirsa-lá are found numerous blocks of
a whitish heavy rock, allied to jadeite, called zoisite; it takes a high
polish and might be made use of in the same manner as jadeite for ornamental
cups, &c. A small quantity is sometimes taken to Lahol by the natives, so they
told me, and sold for about R3 per seer. It eventually finds its way to
Amritsar, I believe, where it is cut and polished. The Srinagar stone-workers
to whom I showed some specimens of it, found that it was too hard for them to
work into ornaments. The source of these blocks of zoisite is probably the
area of tertiary trap shown in Mr. Lydekker’s map to the south-west of the
Sirsa-lá, and forming the peaks D24 and D28, which are drained by the streams
to the west of the pass. Numerous blocks of the traps are found with the
zoisite, and in many cases the two are intermingled in the same block.
 From
this point I returned, taking the more frequented route through Yelchung to
the Zanskar Valley near the village of Zangla. In many of the ravines through
which this route passes earth-pillars are very numerous and often of large
size. One group of them is in the Khurna-foo Valley; they are formed from a
stiff clay which has apparently been consolidated by the weight of glaciers—a
grund moraine, in fact,—and this is frequently full of large blocks of
rock which are sometimes seen either capping the pillars or sticking out from
their sides.
 From
the Zanskar Valley I returned to Soomjam across the main range by the Umasi-lá
17,369 feet, a pass which, though nearly 1,000 feet higher than the Hagshu-lá,
is not so difficult, and is often crossed by ponies, several of which were
brought across by my party. The valleys on either side are filled with large
glaciers; but these do not present many difficulties. A halt has to be made
near the top of the pass at an elevation of about 16,000 feet, and here, as
may be imagined, it is bitterly cold; but unless a strong wind is blowing—and
this as far as my experience goes is a very rare occurrence at night during
August and September,—one can camp out, even at this altitude, without much
discomfort. In the valleys to the north and west of the
Sirsa-lá are found numerous blocks of a whitish heavy rock, allied to jadeite,
called zoisite; it takes a high polish and might be made use of in the same
manner as jadeite for ornamental cups, &c.
On
my return to the sapphire mines I found the work progressing favourably,
though no gems of any remarkable size had been found during my absence. With
the end of September the weather began to break, and snow fell for some days,
so that work had to be given up for the season; and after weighing and packing
up the season’s yield of sapphire, which was taken in charge by the Maharaja’s
officials to be carried direct to Jammu, I set out on my return journey to
Kashmir. On the way I visited various localities in which rock-crystal, iron
ore, and other minerals were said to exist, but did not find any of them worth
the trouble of mining. Among these was a bed of arsenopyrite, a compound of
arsenic, sulphur, and iron, which was found near the village of Berali between
Gulabgarh and Machél, and at about 3,000 feet above the Bhutna; but the bed
seemed to be small in extent. I also paid a visit to the iron-works of Soap in
the Kashmir Valley, the ore for which is obtained from a bed of impure
calcareous limonite intercalated in the limestones and rocks to the east of
Achibal. The bed is only 1 or 2 feet in thickness, and dips at an angle of 35°
into the hill, but its outcrop extends for a distance of at least two miles
along the hill-side, and there must be sufficient ore here to keep the small
native furnaces supplied for many years to come, so long as there is any
demand for the iron, but it would certainly not be advisable to start large
blast furnaces on the English plan, and moreover the ore seems to be very poor
in quality.
So
much has been said lately about the great mineral resources of Kashmir, that
it may perhaps be well, in conclusion, to say a few words on the subject. In
speaking of the mineral wealth that might be brought to light by
properly-conducted prospecting, it does not seem to be generally taken into
consideration that the natives of the country have for ages had good
opportunities of discovering what minerals the hills contain, and that as a
rule they have shown themselves fully capable of making use of their
opportunities. I think that I am not far wrong in saying that in very few
instances in India have useful minerals been discovered in localities that
were unknown to the natives, and in which the ores had not been worked by them
at one time or another. Even the more uncivilised hill tribes are more or less
well acquainted with the minerals their hills contain, and are by no means in
the condition of the Blacks of Australia or the Bushmen of Southern Africa, in
whose country the European prospector has found so great a field for his
energies. To take a single instance: the Khasis of Assam, who till the
beginning of the present century had hardly felt the influence of Western
civilization, have for ages obtained their iron from an ore which occurs as
minute grains of magnetite disseminated in the granite of their hills. Many a
highly-trained European geologist might justly have been sceptical as to the
possibility of obtaining a productive iron ore from granite, and would very
possibly have passed the rock over as being utterly useless for such a
purpose. Yet the Khasis discovered the mineral, and in all parts of the hills
ancient heaps of slag testify to the use they made of their discovery;
moreover, they obtained the ore by a process which was ingenious and even
scientific—in fact, a kind of hydraulic mining somewhat similar to the latest
process devised for obtaining gold in California. Can it be doubted that if
any other useful minerals existed in their hills, the Khasis would not have
found and worked them long ago? Similarly, in Kashmir, any mineral deposits
that exist are probably well known to the natives, and, if useful, are already
worked, and these are not of any great importance. Even the common minerals,
coal and iron, are not found in any large quantity, and where they do occur,
are poor in quality. Accident may bring to light the presence of some of the
rarer minerals, as in the case of the sapphires, but even the most energetic
and intelligent prospector might spend years among the mountains before making
such another discovery.
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